Saturday, 9/28/2019

The phone made a single tentative “kerbloop?” noise at 5am and that was the wakeup call, but it was enough. Did indeed have my bag out at 5:10, and as scheduled we were on the bus at 6am for the 20-minute drive through predawn darkness to Piraeus to board the Blue Star ferry.

It was a large ferry, with several decks, more than one bar, and large comfortable assigned seats inside. The ride on the calm, deep-blue Adriatic under brilliant sun was about five hours long. I spent some time on two different large, roofed decks with chairs and tables open to the breeze, most occupied by Greeks having cheerful conversations and smoking (lots of second-hand smoke); and some time in my assigned armchair reading a book on my phone. Eventually we reached Mykonos where we picked up our bags and Anastasia led us to our bus past an extremely large cruise boat.

The bus driver exercised amazing skill driving a large coach through extremely narrow twisting streets to our restaurant for lunch. Quite a nice place and a good meal. Also, squid.

Squid aside, this is pretty much what all of Mykonos looks like: very dry barren dirt, no trees, brilliant sun, blue water, lots of little white buildings. From lunch our coach took us to our hotel which is actually a five-star and very posh one. Really, really fancy. Here’s the view from my balcony.

We are at liberty until 6pm and… oh my gosh it is 6:09 and the phone is ringing! I held up the whole group and I am so embarrassed!

We all hopped on the coach and were trucked around to the opposite end of the town, the North end where the ferry dock is, and let off to walk through the tiny streets of the town. Mykonos is almost totally a resort; Anastasia says there are almost no farmers, fishermen, or other “ordinary” people living here. Everyone works in retail, hotel, or restaurants to service the constant flow of tourists. The town center is basically a big mall formed of a maze of tiny winding streets. Just the same it is photogenic as all get-out, especially tonight because we were just at the golden hour fading to an orange sunset. Instead of the relatively tedious process of getting WordPress to display pictures, I will point to a Smugmug gallery of unedited images.

After walking all the way through the center of town north to south, we turned around and went back along the waterfront south to north, ending at a restaurant for supper. This process was slowed a bit when one of the group tripped on rough cobbles and fell, hitting hard enough that she got a bit of an abrasion above one eye, and needed a while to recover. Frankly I’m surprised it took this long for someone to fall. The sidewalks in the Plaka, the entire top of the Acropolis, and every foot of road in Mykonos, are a minefield of irregular pavement, sudden steps, cobbles, lumps, intrusive curbs.

Anyway, back to the hotel. Tomorrow we start at a civilized 9am to visit the famous archaeologic site on the nearby island of Delos.

Friday, 9/27/2019

Slept very well, more than 8 hours sack time. Woke early enough to read email and the news before breakfast.

At 7am I went to the breakfast room. By 8am most of the tour were in the lobby and we headed out.

We walked around two sides of the rock and up to the, um, I guess it’s the western end, where is the only entrance/exit to the park grounds. Here we looked down on some famous places, the site of the Agora where (among many others) Sophocles like to sit and ask uncomfortable questions, the Pnyx, the hill where the Athenian citizens met to debate and vote, etc.

From Anastasia’s talk I suddenly realized how differently, all right, how incorrectly, I’ve been pronouncing Greek terms. Take the Temple of Dionysus. I’ve always read that as “DIE Oh NIGH Sus” but she says, “dee ONNY shush”.

We got to the top and entered about 9am. The strong morning sun was making the old columns glow.

From the south side we looked down on the theater where Sophocles’ plays were staged, and beyond to the Acropolis Museum.

After a while there were quite a few people with us.

At 10:30 we met and walked down to the Museum. A dramatic building outside and in, the displays are mostly the bits of the friezes and statuary from the temples on the Acropolis. A repeated theme was, “the ones that are pure white are plaster casts of the originals which are in the British Museum.” Lord Elgin, who originally looted the best friezes, and the British Museum which so far refuses to repatriate them, are not well regarded here.

The Museum is built on columns that support it above an archaeological dig, and the floor is made of glass so you look down into the old foundation stones underneath.

By the time we’d finished with the Museum and started walking to our lunch destination it was 1pm, and it turned out the restaurant was a good kilometer away on the far side of the Plaka. The walks to the restaurant, and back to the hotel, were via different shopping streets in the Plaka. Lots and lots of shops, selling all varieties of tourist things. Quite a few have cheap straw hats, and I wouldn’t mind getting one, but it isn’t convenient just now.

As of 4pm, back at the hotel, the Health app shows 12,188 steps for the day. At 6pm we meet in a conference room for a nice presentation by an archaeology professor on the history and methods of archaeology in Greece and Europe. At 7:15 or so we go up to our hotel’s roof garden restaurant for dinner. I sit with a couple who take three trips a year(!) and have been to Africa 10 times. As well as many South American and European countries.

The plan for tomorrow is to transfer to Mykonos, by a ferry that leaves Piraeus, the port of Athens, at 8am. Which means we have to get on a bus at 6am. Which means a wakeup call at 5am and “bags out” at 5:15. Other than the early start it is expected to be an easy day, with a 5-hour boat ride, and one sight-seeing thing after.

Thursday, 9/27/2019

The transition from Wednesday to Thursday occurred in the air over the Atlantic. Just under eight hours in the seat, if I include the 20 minutes of taxi time after pushback at JFK. I managed some sleep, mixed into probably four hours of eyes-closed quiet time not quite sleeping.

The approach to Athens passes over a lot of the rugged land of Southern Greece, all of which has a strong resemblance to Southern California, including steep rounded hills blanketed in what probably is not, technically, chaparral, but looks like it. Even on final approach the resemblance to, maybe, Bakersfield or Simi Valley, was strong to me, except for many orderly groves of olive trees.

I came out of the arrivals door into a semicircle of at least 20 people holding signs, waiting for specific people or names of tours. But no Road Scholar. I walked around the semicircle four times. Then I decided to call the tour leader but my phone, despite having connected happily while the plane was taxiing to the gate, now had “no service”. All the pay phones required phone cards. The information desk directed me to a phone that took coins (I had some Euro notes and coins, left over from Italy two years ago). Anastasia told me the driver was there, with three other tour members, go back to the arrivals area. Anyway, found him. Met three other members and we had a nice half hour ride in a posh Mercedes van to our hotel.

Anastasia met us. The group will be 21 in all. Four are already here, arriving yesterday. My little quartet came on the same flight (and don’t ask me how I failed to connect with the other three and our driver, earlier) and the rest are coming in this afternoon.

Our rooms weren’t ready (it was only noon) so she led the four of us on a short walk. The hotel is just down the street from the Acropolis Museum, a huge modern building we’ll visit tomorrow, and the Plaka, the old town, which, because a couple of cruise ships are in port, was jammed with tourists and people selling things to tourists. Got a view looking up at the Acropolis which I may put in here later.

Back to the hotel for a very welcome shower and change of clothes, connect to wifi, make this entry. Worked out a method of getting pics off the phone, into my Dropbox folder, down from the Dropbox folder onto the Chromebook, so that WordPress could find them and upload them to a blog post (see above). Nothing more to do until 6pm. I washed my shirt, shorts and socks from the flight and put on tomorrow’s clothes.

The group assembled at 6pm and Anastasia gave us an overview of tomorrow and the following days. We introduced ourselves around the circle. I am the only Californian, to my surprise. Wisconsin, Michigan, Florida well represented. Then we all trooped out to a restaurant maybe 8 blocks away. Standard Greek fare, well presented. Moussaka is what you would get if you made ravioli, but instead of pasta ribbons, you used thin strips of eggplant, and instead of tomato, cumin and spinach.

Back to the hotel to post this and stay awake long enough (it’s already 8pm) for digestion to start, then crash.